Monday, August 9, 2010

A Fashionable Reality

Page 87 of Vogue titled Point of View reads:
I am woman hear me roar. Hear me issue stock-purchase orders from the Wall Street trading floor. I am woman; I am not girl. I do not emulate the pop-burlesque fashion stylings of Ke$ha or Katy Perry. I do not aspire to passé morning-after chic, with bird's-nest hair and shredded leather leggings. No. Of Lana Turner and Barbara Stanwyck-and-Lena Horne I sing.
(Have you felt the smooth, snug tug of fine leather gloves being pulled on? Have you considered the rebellion, the nonconformity, inherent today in a Mamie Eisenhower knit suit? Have you worn a crioline lately?) 
Reader, if you're older than fourteen, fashion for fall 2010 offers more wearable options than it has in eons. Skirts fall below mid-thigh. Designers are giving us dead-cool-but-still-practical Streetwear uniforms for work and school. Black-with-black is totally back. 
Can we get an "Amen" up in here?

I have never been more excited for Fall fashions! In the past few years we have seen some of the most creative collections to date, full of loud and colorful pieces to release our pure creativity. But as we move along through our recession, fashion has had to find its way back to being not only chic but affordable and versatile. As much as we all love tons of sequins and feathers how exactly are we going to wear that to work? 


Cue fall fashion season 2010. While Vogue's Mark Holgate points out that this season draws a lot of inspriation from Artist/Designer Helmut Lang who revolutionized how to look great with pieces that are re-wearable, he also points out that "none of the designers...have literally referenced Helmut Lang for fall; quite a few of them were in business when he was and they all have their own solutions for how to dress for urban life. There's a consensus that the qualities that made Lang's look so relevant - athleticism, functionality, minimalism - are due for a revival." 


His simple child hood in Vienna, Austria helped Lang to realize that great things don't have to be extravagant, thus some of his best fall collections (including '93 - '95 and '97) have introduced some of the greatest elements known to the industry. His major contributions include (but are not limited to) the introduction of slit and slashed sleeves, nylon veil dresses, airbrushed silks and slash geometric patterns on candy-colored fabric, reflective fabrics and nude as a staple color, as well as the use of silks, wools, and cashmeres in basic items. But, if one were to look up a timeline of his work and compare the descriptions to Fall 2010 looks, the similarities would be quite obvious. A key player in this transition is Phoebe Philo, the creative director for Celine. Her designs do an excellent job of emphasizing something that hasn't been seen on the runway for the past few years now - comfort. Comfortable fabrics, designs, and patterns.






Their minimal features leave open an opportunity to be creative to your own personal style by dressing them up with accessories or down with nothing at all. Designers are now letting us take style into our hands and just giving us the foundation pieces - allowing fashion to be more welcoming. 


This concept is the vision behind Celine's entire Fall 2010 line. For three years Philo took a hiatus to do everything but be involved with fashion. "For the first year I just vegged out," she told the New York Times, "and the weeks just kind of went past without me having to do anything. I got back to basics...I really stepped out of fashion. I didn't look at collections, didn't read magazines, didn't buy much."Which (once again) is also quite similar to how Lang found his inspiration in functionality. In 2008 when she came on to Celine as creative director, the fashion world held its breath to see what she would come up with. To keep everyone guessing further, she decided to completely start over establish a new foundation for the brand. "It made all the more relevant to design pieces I thought I'd really like in my wardrobe. Fundamentals, I guess, to wear. And it was refreshing to do that because it made it quite a sober foundation." The end result reflects the needs of the average woman - one who is often too busy to worry about what she is wearing and needs something practical.


Finally, fashion will go back to reflecting the actual needs of the average consumer and not what they think the average consumer should be. Soon the days of following the extreme will take a step back so that our closets can breathe a sigh of relief. The madness is coming to an end. 


xoxo Miss Honeybun


Original article: "Inedible Ink" by Mark Holgate. July Vogue 2010. pg. 105
Helmut Lang Fashion Timeline
Phoebe Philo NY Times interview
Phoebe Philo Vogue Oct. 2009 interview
Celine Fall 2010 RTW
Celine Pre-Fall 2010





Sunday, August 8, 2010

Be Yourself

So with designers going minimal and neutral colors filling the runways how is one supposed to stand out amongst all the basics?

Vogue's final pages of the July issue are dedicated to styling up an outfit with the perfect accessories, which include animal prints, classic shoes in bold colors and bright purses and jewelry, to counter what will be a simple yet sophisticated season for the Fall. We have come to a moment where it is finally clear that just about anything goes! Along with realizing that fashion needs to be functional, designers have now realized that people need to be able to make use of what they already have. It's unrealistic to buy new accessories every season and scrap what was bought just months before because it is no longer "popular". Now, everything has its rightful place.

Take a glance at Vogue's Fall Accessories Guide to find some of your own inspiration within what editors are saying are the best pair ups for the season. You might just be pleasantly surprised to find that you probably own a few of these pieces already.


xoxo Miss Honeybun

Original article: "Base Loaded" by Meredith Melling Burke. Vogue July 2010. pg. 154
http://www.vogue.com/guide/F2010Accessories/
http://www.vogue.com/mostwanted/070110_Fall_Essentials/

Short Farewell

One of Alexander McQueen's 16 final pieces
from the fall 2010 collection
I was surprisingly disappointed at how short the tribute was for Alexander McQueen's final collection, which was presented in Paris, France. Although there was plenty to be said about his incredible talent after his unexpectedly devastating death in the spring, I would have thought there would have been more to say from fellow designers and fans about his last 16 pieces (which can be seen here). My favorite piece can be seen to the right. Each piece in this collection was individually draped by McQueen and no matter how impossible they seemed, he finished them with grace and sophistication.

What further disappointed me was how Vogue's Hamish Bowles, who covered the presentation, did not speak with other collaborators within the house to tap into the other forms of inspiration used for this medieval-looking collection. A quarter of a page for a brief article and a 3-page spread is certainly not what I thought it would be. While I do not find the final collection appealing I still appreciate the brilliance that went into it. McQueen deserved a lot more than what he received.

Don't worry Lee, the rest of us haven't forgotten about you yet.


xoxo Miss Honeybun


Original Article: "Noble Farewell" by Hamish Bowles. Vogue July 2010. pg. 142
http://jawkstrap.com/2010/02/alexander-mcqueen-visionary-dead/
Alexander McQueen Fall 2010 Collection

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

A Gift From the Shoe Gods

Wow so I feel terrible with a capital 'T'. I haven't blogged in weeks, I wouldn't be surprised if many of you stopped subscribing. I finally got my working situation figured out and then of course I got swamped at work but things have finally calmed down and I can breathe a bit. Remember I love comments and suggestions. Enjoy!


xoxo Miss Honeybun


If you google Charlotte Olympia you find descriptions of links like "perfect for shoe obsessions" or "great shoe style". They aren't joking. Next to my AE Outfitters addiction I, like many others, have a huge addiction to shoes (especially heels) and Charlotte Olympia aka Charlotte Dellal knows exactly how that addiction feels. "With what I do, its really a girl designing for another girl," she told Vogue's Mark Holgate. By looking at her past collections, its obvious she knows exactly what a girl wants in a shoe. Her platform pumps are meant to fill one with total confidence. A perfect example is the cameo a pair made at the movie premier of Did You Hear About the Morgans?, worn by Sarah Jessica Parker.





In July's Vogue, we get a teaser of her Fall collection (not mentioned on her website due to renovation), which is inspired by "thick strapped 1940's sandals", "playful use of leopard print" (among many other vivid and bold patterns) "and love of platforms." I will certainly be waiting for her fall looks with high anticipation - my feet are getting jittery just thinking about it! If you aren't sure if her shoes are right for you take a look at some her past pieces.



Now that I've found out who this wonderful person is, that puts shoes on display all over her home, I'm yearning to find out more about her inspiration and style. Shoes this creative are not common or seen everywhere.

Original Article: "Head for Heights" by Mark Holgate. July Vogue 2010, pg. 62'
http://neversmileatacrocodile.files.wordpress.com/2009/07/charlotteolympiaimelda1.jpg
http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/5475/picture21y.png
http://projectrungay.blogspot.com/2009/12/in-or-out-sarah-jessica-parker.html


xoxo Miss Honeybun

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Ari Tabei's Recycling Performance

Hello my dears! I apologize for being off the grid lately. In my quest to find summer work I had to very quickly make a few decisions about my plans and unfortunately didn't have much time to blog or tweet. Oh, by the way if you would like to follow me on twitter click here. Also I am going to experiment with something for the posts that will be up during these next few weeks. I'm going to do a live stream on blogTV while I work on them in a way to connect more with my readers, whoever you may be. I've had a few people suggest to me that I just upload videos on to youtube but I don't have any purpose for it. I think this would be a nice edition so I am going to try it and see how it goes. Please give me feedback! If you honestly think its uninteresting I would rather be told the truth. 


So on to the June Flashback. For those of you that follow me consistently you know my posts are expanded critiques of current articles featured in Vogue. However, Vogue only comes out every few weeks so in between I'd like to have a couple other posts for you, which includes the monthly flashback. The flashback will feature an article from a previous issue of Vogue consistent with the month just from a different year and still highlighting fashion in an artistic way. However it will not be as long as regular posts, but rather something small to last in between bigger posts. I hope you like the idea, once again I'd love to hear more feedback from my readers. Enjoy!


June Flashback


In June 2009, performance artist Ari Tabei wore a 50-pound kimono, seen below, made entirely from fabric scraps at the opening of her show at Rebecca and Drew a New York City boutique. Tabei beat out hundreds of other artists and won the 2009 Sprout Emerging Artist Competition,which was sponsored by the boutique. Versions of the kimono were put on sale a few weeks later.

A teacher taught her how to sew a kimono which was how she realized its ability to showcase a woman's beauty yet restrictive it is. "It restricts how you sit, how you bow, [and] how you move,” she said. To view the full article click on the link below.

Artist Statement
"My interest in rituals lies in my experience, as I grew up in Japan, of the importance of mindfully engaging in daily and ordinary activity with severe discipline. I am attracted to the power and beauty of rituals such as tea ceremony, kimono-wearing, and traditional Japanese wrapping techniques. They are all based on the adoration of the beautiful in everyday existence. This aesthetic teaches us purity and harmony and the mystery of the nature of human beings. I started to invent my own rituals to celebrate my resistance to what was for me the miserable creature called “life”, hoping to make my petty existence acceptable to this creature, after learning to accept it. As I engage myself in the performance of ritual play, my intention is to reach for understanding and transformation. In this practice of conscious engagement, I seek a truth about self and a transformative process which reveals both desperation and hope." - Ari Tabei


xoxo Miss Honeybun

Ari Tabei. Kimberly Straub. June 18th, 2009. http://www.vogue.com/voguedaily/2009/06/art-ari-tabei/

Friday, June 18, 2010

Parsons Produces Another Great Pair

The work of Cushnie et Ochs is not what I would really wear. However with that said, their designs are extremely inventive, creative and not what many of us have seen before. Like dynamic duo, Proenza Schouler, Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs of Cushnie et Ochs graduated from Parsons with the Designer of the Year Award and immediately jumped into the scene with their Spring '09 collection. The very edgy and seductive line has been worn by celebrities like "Gossip Girl" leading lady Leighton Meester. What makes Cushnie et Ochs completely unique is the way their clothes are designed. Each piece is tailored to accentuate the female body in a beautiful and flirtatious way and bring out their inner confidence. As the designers told Vogue's Esther Adams, "It's a reflection of the duality women face daily: the librarian and the vixen."  
The Spring '10 collection follows this concept while also drawing inspiration from German artist Peter Zimmerman. The silhouettes and colors of the dresses featured here 
deeply reflect the style of Zimmerman's paintings. Take the painting to the right, titled G.E.M. The way the colors compliment each other in his works can also be seen in the way the differing elements of Cushnie et Ochs' pieces, in not just the colors but the textures as well. For Zimmerman, the concept is to mix together colors that can stand out to the naked eye out without creating a harsh effect. When looking at the pale blue dress to the far left, one wouldn't imagine cutting it up and replacing the missing fabric with that darker texture. However it is completely innovative and does not carry a harsh effect at all.

Cushnie et Ochs carries an originality that is daring and has produced some of the most artistic work I have seen in Vogue in a while. It will be very interesting to see how far this line expands and what the come up with next.

xoxo Miss Honeybun

Original article: "New Guard" by Esther Adams. June Vogue 2010, pg. 90
other links: http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2008/09/cushnie_et_ochs_isnt_a_fan_of.html;
http://www.sundancechannel.com/fullfrontalfashion/blog/2009/12/market-appointment-cushnie-%20et-ochs-spring-2010/
photo credits: Stewart Shining (Vogue), Peter Zimmerman

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Simple Sophistication

The first time I looked at Aimee Cho's line, Gryphon, and scanned through the spring '10 RTW pieces, I completely fell in love. Not including my a fore mentioned guilty pleasure of AE Outfitters, my style is very stereotypical Northeastern and lets just put it this way: If my love for fashion was an appetite, Gryphon would be that one restaurant I can never get enough of. Cho, a former fashion writer for Vogue, based the entire line on one single piece of clothing - the trench coat. 
"A reinterpretation of the trench is the foundation upon which Gryphon was built.The trench gained prominence in the visual language of popular culture - evolving from its initial purpose as a soldier's n   protective cloak to become the uniform of film noir anti-heroes and ultimately, a staple of a man or woman's modern wardrobe. We took the iconic coat and played with fit and form, but always with an eye to practicality." (concept from the line's bio
It may not seem like much of an idea to start with, but through her creative work she has successfully designed a line that is, in my opinion, simple yet sophisticated - exactly like a trench coat. The two images below are my favorites from the Spring 2010 collection and are featured on the website.

I'm honestly not even sure where I should start with what I love about this collection. If I truly have to decide....the attention to detail would be my overall favorite aspect. Gryphon's pieces really pop out and grab one's attention without being over-zealous or annoying by adding details like sequins, a touch of glitter, quirky buttons, or jewels here or there. Cho's ability to capture just the perfect amount of these things make them a great addition to your wardrobe. Which transitions to my second reason. A piece of clothing has to be able to find its place among the others in your closest. Even if it stands out it still needs to fit with something and with Gryphon there is something for almost everybody. Finally my favorite part of this collection is its versatility. Take those blue hot pants for example. During the day they'd be great with probably just a plain cotton t-shirt and tons of accessories, but at night, pair them with some pumps and maybe black tights, like the pair Cho wears in this picture,  and one of her sequin tops or detailed jackets shown in the collection on the website and those hot pants become part of a great look for a night out. Once a piece has caught your eye and it can fit into your closet without any fuss, it has to be something you can pull out and wear day or night, rain or shine*. Yes, versatility is key. Cho claims Gryphon was founded around the idea of the trench coat, but beneath that I would like to believe that like all good collections it was founded on versatility.

xoxo Miss Honeybun

original article: "New Guard" by Esther Adams. June Vogue 2010, pg. 90
http://www.gryphon-ny.com
other link: http://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/trends/articles/find-your-signature-style-2
photo credits: Stewart Shining (Vogue). Perry Hagopian (Marie Claire)

*p.s. - to find a little something extra that's great about Gryphon, check out their rain or shine policy

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Super Woman

She's graced the cover of US Vogue twice as well as international editions and has been in the campaigns of Dolce & Gabanna, Louis Vuitton, and Tommy Hilfiger. Two kids and two years later, supermodel Liya Kebede has been able to bring jobs to her people in Ethiopia through her successful clothing line, Lemlem. Lemlem, which means "bloom", started off as a line for kids and has now branched into women's clothing as well. The pieces are inspired by the culture of Ethiopia and are rich in ethnic patterns and earthy tones. Through traditional form, the cotton for the designs are spun by the women and woven by the men, making each piece original and unique. "This is my little way of trying to support their creative talent, by bringing them to the Western market where they can showcase their talent. It’s also so the Western market can experience something beautiful from a different world. So it sort of helps both worlds," Kebede told Tammy La Gorce of Babble.com To experience this beauty from a different part of the world is very refreshing. There is something incredibly intriguing about wearing something made by not just human hands, but by the hands of someone who can appreciate the beauty they are putting into their work; someone who takes pride in their work. My Favorite piece from her collection is the tunic she's wearing in the photo to the right. It's simple enough to throw on with some summer sandals and light jewelry to wear during the day or night. Yet it makes a statement without trying too hard; its a juxtaposition of being simple and bold. Contrast it to the Tie-dye pieces by Proenza Schouler, those are completely in your face - they scream, "Look at me!" But Lemlem's are saying "Hey look at me, I'm different and completely unique from what you've ever seen." What makes it even better is the good this line is doing for the people of Ethiopia. "We're employing them so they can be self-sufficient, so they can send their children to school or rise from poverty," said Kebede. (Florence Kane, Vogue) Her work is admirable - her designs are excellent; Liya Kebede has definitely proved that when comes to making an impact, she is much more than a pretty face.

xoxo Miss Honeybun


photo by Patrick Demarchelier 
original article: "Style Ethics" by Florence Kane. June Vogue 2010, pg. 98 
other link: http://www.babble.com/Liya-Kebede-The-supermodel-mom-on-her-charitable-new-clothing-line/

Monday, June 7, 2010

Tie-Dye summers

Oh, tie-dye. The best activity for a summer-camp kid with a usually short lived appearance in most people's wardrobes...and for those past the age of 25 it becomes another one of those fashion fads that one wishes they could forget. So...how did it end up in a Spring 2010 collection? It shouldn't even be surprising that this risky idea came from dual geniuses, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler. They have most certainly earned this month's honorable mention. Although I wasnt able to find out much on their inspiration behind it all, they shared with Vogue editor Alexandra Kotur that, "Tie-dye is the perfect left field element. It has an organic quality, making it an ideal counterbalance to slick fashion."  And how right on they were. When will you ever be able to find a dress, that has an edgy tie-dye print (two words I never thought I would put in a sentence together) and is cute enough to go clubbing in but doesn't look like a ten-year-old made it....all at the same time

I never have. To create this look, they used a Japanese style method known as Shibori. I'm not sure which technique they used because for Shibori there are six, however we are most familiarized with the technique Kanoko. But instead of rubber bands, the Japanese use thread (I'm assuming for a cleaner look). Once again, a very impressive line. They have managed to push the envelope a bit without making it look amateur-ish. To view the entire spring collection, click here  Job very well done.

xoxo Miss Honeybun

original article: "Live and Let Dye" by Alexandra Kotur. Vogue June 2010, pg. 84























June Vogue's cover featured "Gossip Girl" actress Blake Lively photographed by  Mario Testino


Saturday, June 5, 2010

The Beginning


Mission Statement
     This is not to be confused with another typical fashion blog. This is about inspiration. I am less concerned with who wore what and where and more interested in where popular and up-and-coming designers of today find their inspiration. 
     The creative process of the fashion industry seems to have been lost in the mix of beautry trends. My wish is too pull it back and put a spotlight on it; to educate the masses on something they may have never known about: the actual art of fashion. 

The title of this blog is a quote by Elbert Hubbard, an American writer.

The way it works
     Each month I'll highlight the work of a few different designers usually three or four with one honorable mention, meaning I didn't find much on their inspiration but love what they put out. 
     There will a “flashback” each month from a past issue of Vogue Magazine highlighting great art that we may have forgotten about. It will be about as small as a honorable mention. Occasionally I may do a few end of the month favorites which will include product reviews howeve,r remember that this is not a beauty trend blog so don't count on it to be a monthly addition. 

About Me
     I'll share a few basics with you but most of what you need to know can be viewed in my profile. I'm a second-semester sophomore at a State University. I'm a journalism major with minors in spanish and women's studies. My favorite mags are Vogue then Elle, favorite designers Michael Kors and Betsey Johnson and my guilty pleasure is anything from AE Outfitters. If you have any questions or requests just send them to me in a message. I'll be covering designers that I find in Vogue but if you have a designer you want me to feature I'd be more than happy too. Other than that, happy reading loves. :)
xoxo Miss Honeybun